Elevator Control Linkage

Worked on the elevator control linkage today. I wanted to finalize the settings and get this part finished. The manual calls for 28 degrees of up and down elevator plus or minus 2 degrees although they don't tell you how to do it. There are two push rods, a bell crank and four rod end bearings for adjustment. When I installed all these parts many months ago I just set them in place without any real adjustment. Now was the time to get it all set up correctly.

Initially, I wasted some time earlier in the week by trying to set up the linkages using what I thought would be center stick position. This is not how it is done. After much thought, I figured out that I needed to set the end positions first, as long as they are equal, it automatically sets the center stick position. So using my digital angle finder, I started by setting the 28 degrees down, then checked what the up position was. It was different. During several hours of trial and error, I eventually was able to get the linkages to give me 27.2 degrees up and down. I was very happy with that and called it a night.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Today, I rechecked the linkages and verified that I was getting the 27.2 degrees in both up and down elevator. I was. As part of this process I also had to set up the push rod for the pitch servo since it joins on the upper elevator push rod at the top of the bell crank. This push rod had to be adjusted so it would not contact the Garmin stops on the servo. Ideally, the stick should hit the physical stops in the fuselage before contacting the Garmin stops. So, you adjust the push rod linkage until you can achieve this. I was able to get it set up so there was about an eighth of an inch on either end of the throw before contacting the Garmin stops. Perfect.

It was time to tighten everything up, all the jam nuts on the rod end bearings. I used blue lock tight on all the rod end bearing jam nuts. Finished.

Doors

Started working on the doors today. I pulled all the necessary parts from the bin along with the 1/2" ID aluminum tubing. I taped the angles in the appropriate positions on the door frame and measured each length required to join the pieces. I started in one position and worked my way around the door frame until I had all the pieces cut to length. A couple of the angles had to be messaged a bit to fit the frame correctly. Once I had all the pieces cut out for one door, I used them as templates to cut the pieces for the other door.

I used discarded seat track delrin material cut into 2" pieces as spacers all around the door frame. I taped them in place to give me a consistent 1/8" spacing for the door frame

 

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After tinkering with all the pieces to get the best fit while making sure everything lined up, I taped the door to the frame. I made sure it was taped well so there wouldn't be any movement. I then began drilling and clecoing. Once finished, removed it from the frame.

Passenger Door Cleco'd

Next, I'll Hysol and rivet all the pieces together. Then I'll Superfill the junctions to blend them in and smooth everything out. Then on to the other door.

Tail Wheel Lock

Installed the tail wheel locking mechanism in the fuel valve plate in the front of the plane. I will work on the cable that goes to the tail wheel later. It needs to be routed, shortened and fitted to the tail wheel. The fuel shutoff valve will be located on this plate also toward the bottom.

Wire Routing

Worked on the routing of the wires from the wings to the front of the fuselage. I ran two 5/8" ID vinyl tubes from the top of the back of the cabin down each side and to the center of the fuselage. This tubing protects the wires and provides an easy way to add additional wires in the future if needed. It also makes it nice and neat and will keep the wires from being snagged when placing items in the cargo bay.

I've Grip Lock tied them in place and will snip the tails off when I'm sure no changes will need to be done. The Grip Lock Ties are really neat, basically a zip tie but with rubber to grip on the inside and they are also releasable so they can be reused or adjusted.

 I still have to figure out the transition from the wing to the fuse. I need some slack so I can fold the wings. I also am considering some sort of connector in case I ever need to remove the wings in the future, like to cover them!

Here, the tubes all come together and are Grip Locked together moving forward.

The wires all dump out underneath the front floorboard. and will go to the firewall and up, then back to all the avionics.

Flap Handle

I had assembled the flap handle some time ago and temporarily installed it in the fuselage to check fitment. I left it there for a while then removed it because it was in the way of making the under seat trays. Fast forward to painting parts, and I thought I would paint the three unpainted parts in the flap handle, so I did.

Today I reassembled the flap handle and mounted it in the fuselage as part of the task to get the flap cables finished. I had to install four cable pulleys and the cables to the handle before mounting. I got everything mounted, the cables temporarily run over and around the pulleys in the correct direction. I needed to grind some of the cable keepers used on the pulleys as they were too long and binding. I ended up grinding down all the cable keepers on the pulleys mounted near the floor as they were also binding and/or hitting the floor boards. Before I can complete the flap cables, I need to mount all the flap attachment hardware and get the flaps in the totally retracted position. I then can cut and swage the final cables for the flaps.

Ray Allen Stick Grip for the Flap Handle.

Fabric...

So, I changed my mind on the fabric. I originally had planned to do a German Storch paint scheme. This would have required a complete paint job on the airplane with no less than seven colors, five of them custom. Pretty elaborate, but a very cool scheme. A lot of work too! Then I got the quote for the custom paints $3k+ just for the paint, I started to rethink my plans.

I also had been talking with other builders and the consensus on Oratex fabric is the less paint the better. After all, that is the beauty of Oratex fabric, the color is built in, no paint required. The other major reason was touch up and keeping the paint looking good. This aircraft is meant to be taken off airport which means abuse; rocks, sticks, weeds, etc. flying up and hitting the paint which means a lot of touch up.

I purchased White Oratex 6000 because I had planned to paint and White is the best to make colors pop and look they way they are supposed to. That's why I ordered it. Well, after working with Terry on covering his Kitfox (he used Silver), I changed my mind and decided to go Silver also. Only one problem, Better Aircraft Fabrics wouldn't exchange my White for silver. Since this fabric is relatively new, each order is basically custom. So, they would have to find someone that wanted White, in the same or nearly the same quantity, to get them to order Silver for me and I would send them my White. Easy, right? Not so much. After several months I was getting close to covering and it looked like it wasn't going to happen, I started making plans to paint the German scheme again. Just before I committed to purchasing all the custom paint, I get a call from Paul at BAF saying he had somebody that wanted my White. I jumped on it and within a couple of hours had a deal with a guy in Canada. I shipped my White out the next day. He ordered my Silver the following day. So, a long story short, I received my Silver Oratex 6000 fabric today.

42M of White Oratex (2 rolls - 16M plus 26M)

42M of Silver Oratex 6000 (one roll)

Now, my plans are to paint as little as possible but will have an accent color - Black. I'll paint the cowling, gear legs, wing struts, slats and a few other parts Black. It'll look something like this...

Covering to begin soon!

Finishing Several Projects

Today I had to finish up several projects.

First, I started the day on the rudder pedals/toe brakes. I had to install the remaining cotter pins in the toe brakes. This was an effort as there was little room to maneuver. Got them installed and torque sealed. I then temporarily attached the brake cylinders to the toe brakes. I'll finish these up at a later date once I install the brake plumbing.

Next, I moved on to the landing lights. I hadn't been happy with where I had initially installed them because of the length of wire I was going to have to run. So, I decided to tackle them again. I wanted to move them as close to where the wing strut attaches to the wing. To do so, I flipped the brackets so the light would hang under the strut instead of being on top. I had to reverse the brackets and do some bending to get the lights to align correctly. This accomplished the task perfectly. Now my avionics guy can wire in the plugs and complete this wiring job.

Then I needed to fix the control column. Shocker, the manual is poorly written and I misinterpreted it and installed too many washers between the nylon blocks. So, I took it apart and removed the offending extra washers. While apart, I applied grease to the nylon blocks before reassembly. I got it all back together, checked for correct and easy movement and torque sealed those bolts. I have to install a couple of cotter pins in the Aileron cable shackles then I'll be finished with the control column.

Last, the spoilers in the wings must be painted before I cover the wings. I have be contemplating several ideas regarding paint schemes and decided to try one out. I began by removing one and priming it with acid etch primer, then a coat of white paint, then yellow. The white under coat is to make the yellow paint pop. I like the color but it needs a few more coats. I ran out of yellow so I'll let that dry overnight and re-spray tomorrow. I'm thinking of doing some chevrons or stripes in black or red over the yellow. Not sure, I'll decide tomorrow.

Rudder Pedals

Started the day helping Terry finish up his Kitfox covering job. We just had a few finishing tapes to do. Is was Terry's birthday too.

When I got back, I got back to work on my rudder pedals. I spent last evening filing, sanding and fitting the toe brake hoops to the pedal assembly. Trying to get them to operate very smoothly. I also drilled out for the rivets that needed to be installed to secure the hoops.

This afternoon I continued working on the hoops. I needed to clean and smooth the interior of the tubes. There was paint residue that needed to be removed. It occurred to me that a 12ga wire bore brush would be a close fit to the tubes. I happened to have one, I chucked it up in my drill and went to town. Perfect! Cleaned all of them up quickly.

Next, I put axle grease on all the parts and assembled them, checked one last time for free movement and then riveted each pedal together. After all of the pedals were assembled, I cleaned up the excess grease.

Once the hoops were installed I moved on to the brackets for the brake master cylinders. They were previously fitted and drilled for each cylinder. Since they had been painted, I needed to figure out which bracket went with each hoop. Once I had it figured out, I began installing them on each hoop. I also installed each cylinder base in the corresponding fuselage bracket. I left off with everything assembled but still needing cotter pins and to attach the cylinders to the hoop brackets. I'll tackle that tomorrow.