Covering - Trim Tab - Finished

Finished off the Trim Tab today. Did the final shrink, finish tapes, and seaplane grommet (for drainage of any moisture that may accumulate). I also used a soldering iron to punch the rivet holes for the hinge. All finished ready to mount.

Bottom - rivet holes and drain grommet.

Top - finish tapes installed.

Covering - Trim Tab

Got the Trim Tab covered today. Took a little longer than I expected. Results acceptable, continuing to learn how to best work with this stuff. I will let it cure overnight and put a final shrink on it tomorrow. Then I'll apply the finishing tapes and that will cover the seams on the bottom outside edges of the part. Then the part will be complete and ready for installation.

Top

Bottom

Top - Leading Edge on bottom of pic

Bottom - Leading Edge on top of pic. Black piece is the arm for the push rod.

Covering Begins

Ok, in case I haven't said so before, I am covering the SuperSTOL with Silver Oratex 6000. Polyfiber came with my kit and I originally had planned to cover it with Polyfiber. I even took an EAA workshop class in how to apply Polyfiber. But as time went on I found Oratex and became enamored with it.

Many features standout to me: Lightweight (saves ~40lbs vs Polyfiber), non-flammable (Polyfiber - think Hindenburg), non toxic (I'm applying this in my kitchen - not gonna happen with Polyfiber), No painting required (Required with Polyfiber), UV protection built in (None with Polyfiber - requires paint), No messy chemicals (Definitely not so with Polyfiber), Speed (since Oratex doesn't require paint, once covered you're done), etc., etc. The main, and not so insignificant downside of Oratex is the cost. However, to me, the many positive features far outweigh the significant cost difference. Everyone has to make the cost benefit analysis and decide for themselves. The choice was easy for me.

Well, at least I've started the covering process by doing the smallest piece first, the trim tab. But it is a start nonetheless.

First I laid out the part on the fabric and drew the lines around all the parts of the structure that would get glue. Then I brushed on the glue and let it dry. Then the second coat. Then I coated the trim tab itself. The first pic shows the leading edge in the center of the fabric.. my original layout.

While all was drying, I got to thinking about how I was actually going to cover it. Initially, I intended to cover with one piece wrapped around the leading edge with the seams at the trailing edge. In thinking about this I realized the final edge would be on the bottom trailing edge facing into the air stream. I decided to reverse the layout and have the final edge, still on the bottom, but at the leading edge facing rearward, with the air stream. I don't think it really matters, but I'll have the additional security of the hinge being riveted on over the final seam. This pic shows the new orientation with the trailing edge in the center of the fabric.

So with reversing the layout, I had to apply more glue in different areas as shown in the pics. No big deal, none of this is visible anyway. The next pic shows the top attached and trimmed. The bottom all glued and ready to attach the top.

The final pic shows the bottom folded over onto the top, and the top edges trimmed ready to iron. As with all processes, there is always something that comes up. I needed to make up a batch of special cleaner to clean the fabric BEFORE I apply any glue to it. So, I have to wait until the cleaner percolates for 12 hours before I can use it. It's made up and will be ready for use tomorrow morning. I will use it to clean the edges of fabric that will fold over from the top to the bottom. Once cleaned I can apply the glue to the fabric, let it dry and then finish up attaching the top to the bottom.

After it is all attached, I will do a preliminary shrink on the fabric with the heat gun. Then I need to let it cure for 24hrs before I can do the final shrink. After the final shrink I can put the finishing tapes over the seam. Then the part will be done.

Fuel Cutoff Valves/Filters

I temporarily installed the fuel cutoff valves/filters to the top of the cargo area structure. I also installed the header tanks to start plumbing them into the system.

After taking measurements I made up some braided stainless PTFE hose with fittngs to attach to the header tanks and cutoff valves.

I also made up the first bottom fuel line.

Fuel Lines

After I got the Andair fuel valve temporarily installed it was time to run the fuel lines from it back to the header tanks. I began by installing the fittings on the aluminum tube and then flaring the tube to fit on the Andair. Once the fittings were installed I bent the tubes to go back and below each side of the electrical conduit. As always in a learn as you go proposition, my initial layout of the lines wasn't optimal because I had them above the electrical conduit until it was pointed out that it would be better to have the fuel lines running below the electrical stuff in case of a leak. Good call. So, after going through all the bending and fitting of the lines I had to start over.

No problem, just grab some more fuel line and go. Finally got it all done in a way that works. Then I set about securing the lines.

Andair Fuel Valve

Upon the recommendation of my inspector, I had to make a new fuel selector plate to install the Andair Fuel selector valve into. I originally had my tail wheel locking mechanism installed into the same plate, above the fuel selector. The inspector raised a concern about having to reach around/over the TW locking lever to get to the fuel selector in case of emergency. Although I was copying what the factory and many other builders have done, I decided to heed the warning and move the TW lever elsewhere.

So, I made a new plate and installed the Andair valve into it by itself. Admittedly, it is a cleaner install. This plate is located forward of the seats directly in front of the flap handle. It took a few days to complete because I had to wait on lock plates to be delivered.